Epic Road Trip, Part 5

Days 21 - 23:   Exploring the Niagara Region and Reviewing  Some History

We arrived in the Niagara Region with enough time to spend a few days exploring the area. We found a nice campground, about 25km west of Niagara Falls, where we set up for the next three days. Before we left home, Sandy researched some rides for us and determined we could cycle the length of the Welland Canal.

Welland Canal, Port Colborne 

Lake Erie and Lake Ontario are connected by the Niagara River. Traveling by boat between the two lakes would entail a rather dramatic drop over the Niagara Falls. The Welland Canal was constructed to bypass the falls and move ships through the 326 foot elevation difference between the lakes via a series of 8 locks.  All of the locks fill and empty by gravity, with no pumps required.  Initially opened in 1829, the canal has been widened, deepened, and straightened over the years to accommodate ever bigger ships.

The first day in the area, we hopped on our bikes and pedaled into Welland where we got on the paved multi purpose trail that runs the length of the canal.  We rode south to the Lake Erie end of the canal, at Port Colborne.

Pedaling along the canal

The Niagara Region is quite populated, so there are numerous bridges that move vehicular traffic cross the canal. To allow the ships to make their journey along the canal, these are “lift” bridges that open up to let the ships pass through. 

Lift bridge in position for land vehicles

Of course, the vehicular traffic is stopped while the ships pass through, but there are lots of signs warning drivers if the bridge is open so they can choose an alternate route.

Ship passing through an open lift bridge 

Lots of different goods are transported back and forth between the Great Lakes and the Atlantic Ocean through the Great Lakes Saint Lawrence Seaway System, of which the Welland Canal is part.

A product of interest to us is wheat, a major crop in Alberta. The largest wheat transporting ship traveling through the canal has to pay a canal fee of $36,000 per passage. Sounds like a pretty hefty amount, but considering that she can transport  $11 million worth of wheat in a single load, I guess that ticket to ride isn’t too huge after all; it’s all a matter of perspective.

Some of this wheat is milled before transporting through the canal, as this big, old mill in Port Colborne would suggest.

Note how the mill dwarfs the rail cars 

As we made our way along the canal, we passed two different sites with docks for rowing clubs. Long runs of straight canal make a perfect place for rowers to train.  Although there were no rowers out this day, a group of cormorants where taking advantage of one of the docks.  Cormorants lack water-proofing oils on their feathers (odd, being that they make their living diving for food) so they have to hold their wings out to air-dry after fishing.

Cormorants on the rowers' dock

At the end of this day’s exploration of the canal, we stopped for a wee refreshment break. When I came out of the shop with our treats, I found Sandy in discussion with some fellow who seemed rather interested in my bike. I figured they were locked in negotiations and she was probably going to sell my machine on me! 

Turns out, this fellow has the same bike as mine, which is no longer in production.  He was telling her how much he loved his bike and how he wished he had another. Good thing I came out when I did; I could have been walking back to Boxy!!  Total ride distance:  62km

Is Sandy trying to make a deal for my bike? 

The next day, we continued our journey along the canal by heading north through St. Catharines to Lake Ontario.  As we were riding along the trail, Sandy decided to race a ship that was making its way through the canal. 

The race is on!

I am happy to report that she successfully caught and passed that ship and we reached Lock 4 well ahead it.  There is a viewing area set up at that lock where people can watch the lock accommodate a ship as it makes its way through the canal. 

Lock 4 full and ready to receive a north bound ship

On this day, a local volunteer was there to tell people about the canal system, how the locks function, and provide some information about the kinds of ships that work there.  The canal is open from April until it shuts down for maintenance the end of December.  In the nine months it is open, numerous ships of different types and sizes move various goods back and forth to Montreal. Many then head to the Atlantic to work on the ocean while the canal is closed.

Sandy directing lock traffic as the ship she raced moves into the canal (always the cop 😂)

After spending a considerable amount of time at the lock, we carried on with our ride. We rode the remaining length of the Welland Canal to its connection with Lake Ontario. Some sections of the trail passed through some pretty sketchy areas of town, but it was nice to see murals on some old warehouses along the way.

Reproduction of an old advertisement
encouraging one to purchase locally made bicycles

We continued east along Lake Ontario and passed many vineyards, wineries, and orchards as we made our way to Niagara-on-the-Lake. After enjoying a very nice lunch there, we hopped onto another path, this time along the Niagara River, and rode south towards Niagara Falls.  This area is ripe with history, as many of the battles and events of the War of 1812 took place here.

Think of Laura Secord as the Canadian (well, we were British at the time) equivalent of Paul Revere.  Information she overheard and relayed about an impending American attack lead to victory for our side at the Battle of Beaver Dams. A quick summary is available here:  Laura Secord Heroine

Laura Secord Monument

We continued riding south along the Niagara River, up a brutal hill, and on to Niagara Falls. From there, we turned west to make it back to our campground. Total ride distance:  92km

Welland Canal on left, Niagara River on right

The next day was cool and dreary, so rather than ride, we went for a walk then drove into Niagara Falls.  Another important engagement of the War of 1812 was the Battle of Lundy’s Lane. This “was one of the bloodiest battles of the war, and one of the deadliest battles ever fought in Canada.” This was a strategic victory for the British as the much decimated American forces were forced to retreat.  

Lundy’s Lane, now a major entertainment section
of the city of Niagara Falls 

Of course, no discussion of the War of 1812 would be complete without mentioning Major-General Sir Isaac Brock who initiated the defence of Queenston Heights when the Americans came across the Niagara River to try to invade Upper Canada. Although he was killed in battle (before learning of his knighthood), as a result of his leadership and bravery, he remains a prominent Canadian hero. And, who knows, without his legacy, perhaps we would have lost the war and been annexed by the Americans!  For more info:  Sir Isaac Brock 

Sir Isaac is interred beneath the 185 foot column upon which his statue looks out over the Niagara River from Queenston Heights, the site of his final battle.

Brock Monument

The next photo shows Brock’s view of the Niagara River, with Lewiston, New York, on the right, the site from which the Americans crossed the river to begin their assault on Canada.

Niagara River from Queenston Heights

Days 24 - 26:  The Reunion!

The RCMP 1978 Troop 16 was an all female troop of RCMP recruits, admitted in only the fourth year the force accepted women as regular police members. A class of 31 completed the programme before being dispersed all across the country. They had careers of various lengths, achieved various ranks, and are all now retired from the force. All of them spent time on general duty, and some ventured into other areas of policing including highway patrol, under cover work, drug busting, pursuing child pornographers, catching smugglers, and chasing counterfeiters. This reunion celebrated the 40th year since they graduated. Of the 10 troop mates who attended the event, there were two who Sandy hadn’t seen since the day they left Depot.

Ladies of Troop 16, 40 years on!

For some reason, our hotel room served as reunion-central, so there were always extra people milling about.  The group spent their three days together reminiscing about their training days, sharing policing stories, and celebrating one another’s careers. And, of course, there was some time left over to do a little exploring of the Niagara Region.

Horseshoe Falls, the Canadian section of Niagara Falls,
the main attraction 

A good time was had by all, and plans are already in place to have their next reunion in Halifax, 2021.

Up Close to the Falls

After saying our good-byes, it was time for us to start the long drive back to Edmonton. More on that when we post the update for the final leg of this Epic Road Trip.